Sarah-Linh and I have always agreed as well that we like emancipated women, who do not aspire to be conventional. It's safe to say that Christophe Lemaire is having something of a gilded moment sprung from tours of duty under Yves Saint Laurent and Thierry Mugler and a turn as creative manager of Lacoste;. "Theres something about the Asian aesthetic and philosophy that I have always loved. My own label is growing in an important way and I now really want and need to dedicate myself to it fully, he said in a statement at the time. In 2020, he again won the championshipfor the 4th consecutive timeby winning a total of 204 races in JRA including 8 G1. At Lemaire, the fall 2015 collection included coats, dark and light, and boots. ", 7. "I try to understand references, but I also like to mix influences. Tran: Today I think women really want to dress for themselves. PARIS Christophe Lemaire, the whispery, whiskery designer of Lemaire, is an odd avatar of steel-spined grit. CL: We believe so much in teamwork. Lemaire, founded by Christophe Lemaire in 1990, has undergone several iterations since its original inception almost 30 years ago. They are dedicated to supporting young, independent companies. It was meant to create an intimate experience, a link between the models and the audience so you could appreciate the clothes from a close distance. Follow the conversation at nytimes.com/insidefashionweek. [16], In September 2019, Lacoste appointed Chinese singer/actor Z.Tao as their brand spokesperson for Asia Pacific as the brand's first attempt at appointing someone for the region. ST: We really like denim, so we decided to do an indigo programme based on the key volumes of the brand. I think that is what has changed. Naturally, if you can step away from the system of changing a collection every six months, you realize that you do not want to change your wardrobe every season, you just want to build your wardrobe. The main task the stylist received was to develop a new image of the company to attract new and younger buyers without losing old ones. Youve just announced that you will work with them again for another season. Ses crations colores[2] sont alors dfinies comme des vtements sport-chic intemporels[3],[7], suivant une tendance minimaliste[4]. ", 6. "I love poetry, but, no, I havent read that one," he replied, looking somewhat amused or perhaps puzzled by my query. CL: I think we live in a world thats in a late stage of capitalism where business is everywhere, in every single detail of our lives, and we are not even conscious of it because it has come so gradually. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran reference the 1974 film Alice in the , Uniqlo definitely makes a case for color this season. I was looking at 70s images of the city, Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin. Christophe Lemaire - Designer Profile - Models.com - The faces of fashion His fave fictional character "Des Esseintes, from rebours [by French author Joris-Karl Huysmans]. With an emphasis on color, those sporty tennis skirts, collegiate sweaters, and of course, piqued polos come in hues for anyones fancy. Lemaire, founded by Christophe Lemaire in 1990, has undergone several iterations since its original inception almost 30 years ago. Lemaire - Lemaire-EU - LEMAIRE | Official European website [4], In 2017, he became the first foreigner to be Japan's leading jockey, winning 199 JRA races in the year. Or it can be, lest all this philosophizing sound chilly, more traditionally subversive, like the molded-leather bags, designed with the Chilean sculptor Carlos Penafiel, in the gracefully if protuberantly rounded shape of a womans dcolletage, nipples included. Business in itself is not the problem, its what you do about it, what you do with it. His work reflects an elevation of wardrobe basics. Bernard died in Paris on 21 March 2006. ", 3. They were a Russian and Persian influenced folkloric counterpoint to the opening outfits, which were based on manly gaucho styles from Argentina. In 2010, Christophe Lemaire was joined by Sarah-Linh Tran, marking a turning point for the label, which rebranded as LEMAIRE and donned a new logo. And at the end of the day we love fashion! With this in mind, what kind of advice would you give to a young designer? The show on Wednesday drew an appreciative crowd. I think stylish people know themselves, they know how to dress, they know what suits them, their body and what makes them feel confident. Il introduit chez le sellier une mode plus sobre que les corsets et bottes de cuir de son prdcesseur[4] et est remarqu par les mdias[13]. But inside the office, seated by a framed photo of David Bowie at his most aristocratic, Mr. Lemaire betrayed no anxiety, only calm. Melancholic. Then, after Spring and Summer Collection 2002, he has been chosen creative director of Lacoste as Giles Rosiers successor. Is There Life After Herms? - The New York Times - Breaking News, US While he appreciates the work of Gaultier and Eric Bergre, who was there for nine years, Lemaire said that hed been most influenced by Martin Margiela, the minimalist and modernist designer who was with Herms from 1997 to 2003. Lemaire News, Collections, Fashion Shows, Fashion Week Reviews, and CL: Of course functionality and reality is the base, but we also like the idea of something which is not purely utilitarian, and we try to bring this charm, which sometimes is in the details, in the stitching or in the choice of a button, which isn't purely functional. Lacoste S.A. is a French company, founded in 1933 by tennis player Ren Lacoste, and entrepreneur Andr Gillier. I found mostly positive reviews but no candid bios just this quick sketch: He interned at Yves Saint Laurent, was a new-wave-loving DJ, launched his own womens line in 1991, followed by a mens line in 1995, and worked at Lacoste for 10 years. In 2022, despite major wins at the Tenno Sho (Autumn) and the Arima Kinen, he lost his title. She later added that the designer seemed less sure with pattern that perhaps he was "too in awe of the houses heritage to make print sing. The designer was at the head of the department of haute couture and pret-a-porter of Christian Lacroix before deciding to create his own label in 1990. Externally, it appears to be a big moment for you. In January, Mr. Lemaire changed the name of the label from Christophe Lemaire to Lemaire to acknowledge her contributions, and those of his small studio. He brought new blood into the company, having colored classically white sporty tennis skirts, collegiate sweaters, piqued polos, and brought Lacoste back onto fashion scene. However, starting in 2000, with the hiring of a new fashion designer Christophe Lemaire, Lacoste began to take over control of its brand name and logo, reining in their branding arrangements. The fashion world is full of amazing talents and visionaries that didnt make it because it is a world where you need experience. When attempts to separate Izod and Lacoste to create revenue did not alleviate the debt, Crystal sold his half of Lacoste back to the French and Izod was sold to Van Heusen. CL: We like elegance, but we don't like when its too precious and fragile. Christophe Lemaire was born in Besancon, France in April 1965. "We're interested in designing clothes that you need": As Uniqlo U's tenth collection for Spring/Summer 2021 is released, the designer Christophe Lemaire speaks to Dal Chodha about his approach to fashion How did that come about? 2023 The Business of Fashion. CL: Well I'm not a social media guy at all. I dont think we are. Were all conditioned to create fantasies, he said. La dernire modification de cette page a t faite le 27 novembre 2022 21:44. A central authority for the fashion and luxury industry. In December 2011, Lacoste was accused of censoring the work of Palestinian artist Larissa Sansour. They are not in a rush or expecting short-time returns, so it is kind of perfect for us. If the lion's share of luxury fashion opts for fantasy, Lemaire proudly makes clothes that stay tethered to reality. [Laughs.]. In March 2016, the company opened a new flagship store on Fashion Street in Budapest. Revenueshit about $14 million in 2018, with more than 200 retail partners across the globe. It doesn't get betterup to 70% off Sale. Why did this new arrangement feel right this time? In the early 1950s, Bernard Lacoste teamed up with David Crystal, who at the time owned Izod, to produce Izod Lacoste clothing. Likewise in the United States, the Lacoste brand can be found in stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Lord & Taylor, Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale's, Macy's, Belk, Halls, and other independent retailers. Lacoste tried to block an application from Crocodile to register its logo in China during the 1990s, and the dispute ended in a settlement. Its nuanced and sensitive, but it can be very rigorous. Last year the French designer Christophe Lemaire announced that he would step down as the creative director of Herms womens wear to pursue his own line, Lemaire. [5] In October 2018, he rode Almond Eye to her victory at the Japan Fillies Triple Crown and won the championship for the second consecutive year, breaking Yutaka Take's long standing record for wins in a year in Japan (215 wins vs 212). The global fashion label is also , Lemaire takes a page from the seventies with its spring-summer 2020 mens collection. This page was last edited on 2 June 2023, at 19:44. Sansour had initially been included on a shortlist of eight nominees for the prestigious Lacoste lyse prize a competition which had been organised by the Muse de l'lyse in Lausanne, Switzerland, with Lacoste's sponsorship. Lemaire was also appointed to design a new Uniqlo line, dubbed Uniqlo U. Lemaire also designs seasonal collections for Uniqlo. Christophe Lemaire Contact Info Role Designer Profile Work Clients People News Biography Nationality: France Longtime designer at Lacoste, in 2011 became the women's creative director at Hermes Updates all (65) All (65) Advertising (14) Editorial (7) Shows (32) Lookbook (9) Other (3) Only videos 1 2 3 . It sells clothing, footwear, sportswear, eyewear, leather goods, perfume, towels and watches. Privacy Policy CL: We really liked the place itself, the architecture, the height, the light ST: We found interesting the idea of having models walk through the different rooms too, because the scale was like in everyday life. In 1977, Le Tigre Clothing was founded in an attempt to directly compete with Lacoste in the US market, selling a similar array of clothing, but featuring a tiger in place of the signature Lacoste crocodile. Lemaire: I always had this vision of what a womans wardrobe should be, but without a womans point of view. Our Instagram is an interesting tool to reach people that were not following the brand at the beginning. In this work Sansour imagines the state contained within a single skyscraper, with each floor representing a replica of "lost cities" including Jerusalem, Ramallah and Sansour's own hometown of Bethlehem. So when we make our clothes, we take the time to wear them and experience them, think about the pockets, think about the side slits, think about how you're going to be able to put your hands in your pockets, how you're going to wrap yourself in the collar of a coat, how much room you have. It was also a way to improve what we couldnt do for the first season. The line had a commercial success and was oriented on average buyer. One of your early experiences in fashion was working as an assistant to the designer Christian Lacroix. That doesnt mean I dont care about being recognized for my work. Christophe Patrice Lemaire (Japanese: (Kurisutofu Rumeru), born 20 May 1979) is a French-born jockey. So of course we are watching what is happening. Christophe Lemaire on Building His Brand and Designing for 'Everyday In January 2023, she left her position after a four-year tenure. I love Charles Aznavour. (Its not like I knew of the 1872 classic-but when my Google search on Lemaire fell short, I tumbled into the Internet rabbit hole researching gaucho influences.) Christophe Lemaire - Fashion Elite (Mr. Lemaire called the racing speed of contemporary fashion the disease of our time.) It can be the smaller, independent path less taken. We are French, we are rooted in this culture so it is not about refusing seduction but agreeing with what rules you want to follow. Do you find that by approaching design as a team, youre able to generate ideas that might not have occurred to either of you on your own? Lemaire not only brings this vision to his namesake label but to UNIQLO as well. "Suzy loves Herms scarves. Christophe Lemaire might be menswear's foremost realist. I'm a huge fan of Alvar Aalto, his houses I've visited are beautiful because you have this functionality but you also have this sensuality, maybe even more than in the Le Corbusier, which for me is not a social architect. In both geographic and stylistic extremes, Lemaire craftily expressed Herms signature design codes. Son dpart d'Herms aprs un dernier dfil en octobre 2014 est annonc quelques mois avant[13]; il est remplac par Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski[14]. [2], He won the 2011 Melbourne Cup in a photo-finish riding Dunaden. CL: Daily gestures. Fashion Designer France Paris Aries 12 April 1965 christophelemaire.com Christophe Lemaire Christophe Lemaire was born in Besancon, France in April 1965. A Cultural Hallmark and Non-Profit Research Project for the fashion industry and science. En 2016, Christophe Lemaire devient styliste Paris pour la marque de prt--porter Uniqlo U[16], une ligne, homme et femme, plus couteuse que la collection de base de la marque japonaise[6]. Christophe Lemaire on Building His Brand and Designing for Everyday Quality of Life, https://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/29/t-magazine/christophe-lemaire-interview-paris-fashion-week.html. Something poetic. Lemaire - Wikipedia Very beautiful, well-made clothes. Its a cult novel from the end of the 19th century about a man obsessed with the illusion of creating his own world. Lacoste had also begun to increase its presence in the golf world, where noted two-time Masters Tournament champion Jos Mara Olazbal and Scottish golfer Colin Montgomerie have been seen sporting Lacoste shirts in tournaments. ST: And actually our creativity is also very inspired by the means we have, the capacity we have, and the constraints. [31][32], In 2020, the Australian Strategic Policy Institute accused at least 82 major brands, including Lacoste, of being connected to forced Uyghur labor in Xinjiang. How does it feel from the inside? This is the beauty of being independent, you can maintain that philosophy which is not possible in a bigger structure with so much pressure from the sales people. Even without Herms, whose new artistic director, Nadge Vanhee-Cybulski, shows her first collection on Monday, Mr. Lemaire still compels attention. Impersonation Disclaimer [13] In September 2010, Christophe Lemaire stepped down and Felipe Oliveira Baptista succeeded him as the creative manager of Lacoste. ST: Reliable fabric makes a reliable garment. The printed pieces which were a mix of archival and newly developed designs closed the show. Its true that all of a sudden people started to look at the brand a little bit more carefully. Lemaire: Yes, from the inside we feel that it is evolving, we are restructuring the company and sales are constantly growing, the press reviews are good. As much as what you decide to eat, read or do in your free time, the way you decide to dress is a cultural choice. The designer was at the head of the department of haute couture and pret-a-porter of Christian Lacroix before deciding to create his own label in 1990. Biography The brand's financial success has attracted investment from Fast Retailing, which has deepened its relationship with the brand through a minority stake in the label in 2018. But its ok to step back and to say no, and thats very much the way we think. It seems kind of like putting on a play. And Sarah-Linh brought this, along with her talent and her sensitivity. In Canada, Lacoste is sold at Harry Rosen, Hudson's Bay (retailer), its own boutiques, and other independent retailers. In fact, I was able to find out more about a French jockey who has the same name than I could about Lemaire. 10 things about Lemaire that you wont find on Google, 2. Lemaire expanded Lacoste clothing line with new collection of yachting wear developed exclusively for the skipper Loick Peyron. The company can be recognised by its green alligator logo. Category:Clothing designed by Christophe Lemaire - Wikimedia Commons Its an interesting moment because some people raise a finger and say, wait, maybe we can question this mentality, this dominating idea that we always have to grow, that we always have to consume more. He adds just a. Lemaires outing , In need of a wardrobe update? Girls no longer care about walking in heels or being conventionally beautiful. He also rode Pride in the Grand Prix de Saint-Cloud, beating the favourite, Hurricane Run. market. Since then, youve focused solely on your own line and, as such, the team has grown and retail has expanded both in stores and online. All rights reserved. [12] In 2009, Hayden Christensen became the face of the Challenge fragrance for men. Aprs diverses expriences chez de grands noms franais de la mode, il fonde la marque portant son nom dans les annes 1990; celle-ci durera une dizaine d'annes. ", Discover 10 things you never knew about fashion designer Lemaire on the next page. We can finally create and post content with a certain lightness that is favorable to experience new narratives. Tran: The development time for the first collection was very short. His work reflects an elevation of wardrobe basics. Currently, Lacoste has once again returned to the elite status it held before a brand management crisis circa 1990. Christophe Lemaire - Interview Magazine Lemaire not only brings this vision to his namesake label but to UNIQLO as well. Eli Russell Linnetzs Last Live Show Was a Stadium Tour. Hes a philosophe of fashion, given to long pauses for thought as he chews over how and why he makes the clothes he makes. The reason why we made this agreement with Bpifrance is because its a minority investment, they wont interfere in the strategy, they look over the numbers but they dont have any input on the whole operation or structure or collection. I do believe that a strict, rigorous, dignified look on a woman makes her very attractive. Born on April 12, 1965, Lemaire is known for his minimalist style. We constantly think about how we are in the system, which rules we are ready to follow and which ones we are ready to resist. But were interested in the quality of everyday life. There was a little bit of anxiety, Mr. Lemaire said of the decision in his measured way, as he sat in the back office of his studio on the Rue du Temple in Paris, the day before his fall 2015 womens show. Your source for the latest Lemaire news, updates, collections, fashion show reviews, photos, and videos from Vogue. The company claims this as the first example of a brand name appearing on the outside of an article of clothing. We very much question this soft tyranny of the ultra-liberal world where you have to follow, and you don't question things, you need to run, faster and faster and faster, you have no more time, there are more and more distractions, and you lose yourself in that. [6][7], In 2019, he retained his title in Japan for the third consecutive year, winning 5 G1 races as well as the Dubai Turf, the first international G1 win of Almond Eye. PARIS TRAVEL GUIDE: Fashion tips and trends Do not translate text that appears unreliable or low-quality. Pour la premire fois, la marque au crocodile dfile pour prsenter ses collections. Its happening now.. Born on April 12, 1965, Lemaire is known for his minimalist style. If he were a colour, hed be "Green a greyish green. Christophe Lemaire is a French fashion designer. Our vision fits into something that people want. Artistic director Christopher Lemaire reinvents , Following news of Christophe Lemaires appointment as Uniqlo artistic director, we finally get a look at the designers vision for the essential brand. Craftsmanship and fabric quality also constitute a large part of their philosophy. By Nicole . CL: Sometimes you feel like people in fashion are a bit ashamed to admit to doing just clothes, they need the rock n' roll alibi, the artsy alibi, to justify that they make clothes. Paris. . This meant that Almond Eye became the Japanese horse with the most G1 wins (8 in Japan and 1 international). He is someone who is more than a fashion designer, because he had all this amazing culture and a sensual approach to color and texture. He joined Herms when Jean Paul Gaultier left in 2010 after seven years with the company. Lemaires aesthetic reflects the designers own unforced elegance. In 2002 he also began racing in Japan Racing Association races using the 3-month short-term licence (, tanki menkyo) system, taking part mainly at local racecourses such as Chukyo Racecourse and Kokura Racecourse. Thats not changing every six months thats just absurd. "Its the day after when you think about everything; youre a bit anxious about how it is perceived.